After visiting Badajoz, I would head south towards Olivenza. It is part of the most beautiful towns in Spain due, in addition to its monuments, to the homogeneity of the colors and materials used in the houses of the historic center. For the paving of its streets and the harmony with the environment.

Olivenza has been the subject of dispute for centuries between Spain and Portugal. The Guadiana River being the natural border between the two nations, the cities that were facing each other were Olivenza and Elvas. Both have large walls, however Elvas has, apart from the bastions, two modern fortifications that make it impregnable until the invention of aviation.

Olivenza was also very important in the reconquest against the Arabs, and it has a very successful wall.
The Alconchel gate, in the bottom image of the thread, gives access to the historic center where we will find the most important monuments: the castle and the church of Santa Maria del Castillo, as well as the most important church of Saint Mary Magdalene.

The Castle of Olivenza, in the lower image, and inside the right image, was built by the Order of the Temple to which Alfonso IX ceded the village as payment for his help in the conquest of the taifa of Badajoz. After passing into Portuguese hands, Don Dinís walled it up in 1298. Later, in 1488, Don Joao ordered the erection of the keep, which turned out to be the highest in Portugal. After passing through Portuguese, Spanish and French hands, Olivenza has belonged to the kingdom of Spain since 1801. It was badly damaged during the War of Independence and due to subsequent abandonment.

The church of Santa María del Castillo is located inside Olivenza Castle and gave its name to one of the old districts of this city, the village of Santa María del Castillo. It was initially built in the 13th century, having to be later rebuilt in the 16th century. Today this castle houses the ethnographic museum of the city with popular cultures and traditions.

The most outstanding church is the church of Santa María Magdalena which imitates the Portuguese religious style, the manualino, with helicoidal columns that seem to twist on themselves.

We also find a couple of convents, being the convent of San Juan de Dios where the tourist office is located and is owned by the town hall where different events are held. The convent is located in the Olivenza fortress and attached to it are two of the old bastions. The town hall building in the center of the city also stands out.



Walking with the car about 30 kms I would arrive at Elvas.

Walking with the car about 30 kms I will arrive at Elvas.
This city was founded by the Romans, like the not-so-distant Evora. Later it would be conquered by the Arabs and in the 13th century it would be recovered by the Portuguese, descendants in large part of the Suevi, with common ancestors with the Galicians. Starting in the 15th century, Elvas began to gain importance with several of its constructions, however, the city gradually acquired particular importance as it was on the border with Spain.

Since the 17th century, after Portugal's independence from Spain in the time of Felipe III, Portugal will take a very different path from Spain and will ally itself on many occasions with England, exploiting trade with the Anglo-Saxons to the fullest. That will result in many quarrels and attacks by the Spanish, which is why that territory would have special privileges and privileges to claim the northern population and stop Spanish advances. The city is covered in defensive bastions and has two of the best fortifications in the modern world. It is for this reason and for other factors such as the fact that it maintains the original historic quarter and the layout of the city, which is a World Heritage City and one of the most visited cities in Portugal, has hardly undergone any changes.

Being very close to Spain, one might think that there are hardly any changes, but this city is very integrated and linked to Portugal and the change is absolute. Although a part of its inhabitants understands Spanish perfectly.

As I have said before, this city is important for its fortifications, although it does have a historic center and a couple of religious buildings that are worth visiting. One is the Iglesia de la Asunción, very similar to the churches seen in Olivenza, located in the Plaza Mayor, in Manueline style.

Another interesting church is the Church of the Dominicas, a Catholic proto-temple with a quadrangular floor plan that preserves the old paintings and original columns. The Dominican temple was built on a primitive medieval structure, the Magdalena Church, built by the Templars in the 13th century and destroyed in 1540.
After seeing the center and these churches, I will head towards the military museum, passing by the church of Santa María de Alcovaça and the church of San Francisco, which has a very ornate baroque altarpiece.



The military museum and facilities are attached to the old convent of Santo Domingo, whose large church can be visited. In the museum, whose entrance is only 3 euros, we can find a historical walk through all the military forces of Portugal, from combat, radio communications or defenses to the musical or medical level. It has several modern tanks, as well as vehicles from the early 20th century.

The fortifications are outside and are those of Santa Lucia and Santa Gracia. It is worth visiting and it is free.



Lastly, before leaving for Lisbon, I would stop at the Elvas aqueduct, one of the best preserved in Portugal.

Day 3, visit to Lisbon (CLICK to continue)

December 4, 2021